The speedometer cable is moved from the gearbox, and curves smoothly up through the engine compartment and the bulkhead to affix through the back of the speedometer.

Speedometer faientice is most likely to be resulted in by a fault in the cable that runs from the gearbox to the ago of the speedometer gauge.

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If the gauge needle does not relocate at all, the inner cable or drive might be broken; or the cable"s square ends might have end up being rounded via wear and fail to engage in the sockets.

The fixings at the ends deserve to occupational loose or be wrongly fitted.

If the gauge needle swings or moves sluggishly, gearbox oil might have seeped up the cable and also obtained into the speedometer itself. In that instance, you have to replace the speedometer.

If the needle twitches swiftly, check out whether the cable is crumelted, kinked or also sharply bent. Intermittent twitches have the right to be caused by loose relationships or by worn and also slipping ends on the cable.

A tapping noise is a authorize of a damaged drive or lack of lubrication.

To research the cable for any kind of of these faults, support the vehicle secudepend on axle stands or ramps.

Disconnecting and also checking the cable

Disattach the cable from the speedometer and examine for loose fittings and worn drive ends.

First look over the whole length of the outer cable to view if the casing is damaged almost everywhere.

Make certain that the cable adheres to a smoothly curved route and also is not kinked or crumelted. Tbelow should be no bend within 50mm of either finish. Bends elsewhere must have a radius of not much less than 150mm.

On some cars, overview clips hold the cable in location. Make sure that it has actually not operated loose.

The cable is associated to the gearbox by a knurled thimble nut, a circlip, or a forked plate.

Unscrew a thimble nut via your fingers, starting it via huge grips if vital. Squeeze a circlip totally free via circlip pliers.

A single screw holds a forked retaining plate. Unscrew it.

The top finish of the cable is harder to reach. If you cannot reach it, remove the speedometer or the instrument panel.

The optimal connection is a knurled thimble nut, or one of numerous forms of clip. Most clips release when they are pushed in and also turned sideways; one kind has a ribbed location on one side, which you depush to release the clip.

Examine the square ends of the drive for wear and check that the fixings are sound.

Turn one end of the drive by hand also while a helper watches the other end. If the other end does not turn, the drive is broken. If the drive transforms stiffly or you feel it snagging, examine that it is not kinked or crushed by a sharp bfinish or a guide clip.

If one finish of the drive moves in a circle instead of revolving on the spot, the drive is kinked.

If the drive appears undamaged however is mostly stiff, it might need lubrication.

Pull the drive out of the casing, clean the drive with petrol, smear it sparingly with grease and slide it back.

Some inner cables, yet, have actually captive ends and you cannot pull them out. In that situation, feed light oil between the cable and also outer sheath.

Fitting the brand-new cable assembly

Use a thin screwdriver to ease the flange of the grommet through the bulkhead opening. Fit the cable right into the guide clips without pinching or kinking it.

Find and release all the guide clips, and lever out the rubber grommet where the cable passes through the bulkhead. Pull the cable out into the engine compartment.

Check aobtain that you need a new cable. Repeat the turning test to check out if the drive is kinked; or pull out the drive and also roll it along a flat surchallenge. Hold the cable in a "U" shape around 230mm wide. Turn one finish of the drive. It need to move smoothly without capturing inside the casing.

Sometimes you have the right to rebrand-new the drive alone, but devices currently tend to supply just finish cables. In any case, take the old cable to the components keep to make sure that the new one is the same. It is an excellent concept to buy a brand-new gearbox oil seal at the exact same time.

Push the peak finish of the new cable through the bulkhead. Use a thin screwdriver to ease the grommet right into area.

Refit the cable right into its overview clips. Some clips have bands to mark the points that need to fit into the clip. They are a valuable inspect that you are routing the cable correctly.

In any type of case, make certain that the path is smoothly curved. Add extra clips or bands just if they are really essential. Make sure that clips carry out not squeeze or pull the cable.

To fit the new gearbox oil seal, lever before out the old one through a screwdriver and push in the brand-new one, making certain it seats well.

Refit the reduced drive link, taking care that the square drive end is involved. Tighten a thimble nut just finger tight, and also be cautious not to cross-thread it.

The peak link is slightly harder to refit, because it is more hard to acquire the second end of the drive engaged.

Refit the speedometer if you had to rerelocate it, and also test it by taking the vehicle on a brief run.

Cable relations into the gearbox

Speedometer cable relationships to the gearbox fall greatly right into 3 kinds.

The knurled thimble-however connection is threaded inside, and also screws on to the gearbox speedometer outlet - which is likewise threaded - approximately the shoulder.

The circlip link fits over the cable and into a recess in the gearbox output sleeve, securing both.

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The fork link - an older kind - is sindicate a shaped fork that holds the cable finish in the gearbox by implies of spring pressure. It is secured by a screw.

Sleeve connection
A knurled thumble nut screws on to a threaded outlet.
Circlip connection
A circlip on the cable fits into an outlet.
Fork connection
The cable end is hosted by a shaped fork.